La guida turistica delle Isole Lerins

Just off the coast of Cannes is a group of islands where the surrounding is serene and tranquil: the Lerins Islands (Îles de Lérins). They are rich with a unique history matched with historical sites, beautiful panoramas, and spectacular natural features. These beautiful and unspoiled islands combine leisure and relaxation to pull many tourists out of Cannes and other major towns of French Riviera.

The hustle and bustle are what make the Riviera francese much alive. The influx of tourists, the nightlife, the events… everything is lively and partyish. But sometimes, you may look for a place to escape the buzz and fuss of the beautiful Côte d’Azur. The islands are only a 15-minute ferry ride from Cannes, but seemingly another world away from the partyish French Riviera towns; this pair of islands is a perfect tourist escape.

Take a boat to one of the islands of Lérins and spend an afternoon enjoying nature and wine. You can chose between the island Ste Marguerite, with a military fortress now sheltering a greek artefacts museum, or the island St Honorat, providing an active 5th-century abbey where there will be an option to taste the wine and liquors the monks produce.

Like the rest of the French Riviera, the islands have the perfect clima mediterraneo and 300+ sunny days per year.

The Lerins Islands are around 5 kilometers away from La Croisette, Cannes, from port to port. It takes around 15 minutes to visit the islands via ferry boats coming from Antibes, Cannes, E Nice. You can also take a private boat or kayak. Ci sono quattro isole: l'Île Ste-Marguerite, l'Île St-Honorat, l'Île St-Férréol e l'Îlot de la Tradelière. Le isole di Ste-Marguerite e St-Honorat sono le più grandi e le più visitate. Le altre due sono entrambe minuscole e disabitate.

Note: No cars or hotels are present in the islands, and day trips are until only 6pm, when the last ferry departs. There is also no ferry service between the Islands of Ste-Marguerite and St-Honorat, but you can kayak or charter to those islands. It is also good to bring a stainless-steel water container with you when doing day trips.

Discover these wonderful islands through this travel guide so you can have a relaxing and enjoyable journey:

Sainte-Marguerite Island

L'isola di Saint-Marguerite è un rifugio quasi paradisiaco. Ricca di eucalipti e pini, si percepisce il cambiamento non appena si gusta il cibo sull'isola. A differenza della frenetica città di Cannes, Saint-Marguerite è un luogo calmo e tranquillo, dove natura e relax si fondono in armonia.

Scented pathways like the Allée des Eucalyptus and Allée des Myrtles criss-cross from coast to coast. Other forested sections are made up of an impenetrable scrub sourced over decades from places as far away as Australia, China and Brazil – and the island’s climate supports them all. Various marked trails can be followed to explore the island, which hosts a significant number of migratory birds and unique plant species.

L'isola di Santa Margherita è la più grande delle Isole di Lerino. Ha una superficie di circa 150 ettari, una lunghezza di 3 chilometri e un diametro di 900 metri. È essenzialmente una foresta con diversi centri turistici. Il villaggio principale è un nucleo di venti edifici che ospitano pescatori, con un piccolo cantiere navale.

This being socialist France, only paupers are allowed to stay the night. After the last ferry departs from Cannes at 6pm, millionaires must skulk home to their Croisette hotels, while the lucky residents of the island’s International de Séjour youth hostel may lord it up like the Sun King himself.

Sainte-Marguerite’s History

In 1687, the world’s then most celebrated prisoner was rendered to Île Sainte-Marguerite. The island may be a sub-tropical Elysium nurtured by a dizzying micro-climate, but the inmate (thought to be King Louis XIV’s half-brother and rival heir) could only peek at paradise from the barred windows off the towering Fort Royal; a look-but-don’t-touch torture that must have driven him to insanity.

Nel corso dei secoli, Sainte-Marguerite è stata un microcosmo di avvenimenti globali. Fu occupata da francesi e spagnoli, oltre che da turchi ottomani e paracadutisti nazisti. Percorrendo il perimetro ombreggiato da pini marittimi – una passeggiata di 90 minuti – vi imbatterete in una dozzina di macchine per la fabbricazione di palle di cannone risalenti all'epoca di Napoleone. Per fortuna, dal 1945 regna la pace.

The island got its name from Ste Marguerite, and a sister of St Honorat. She was a nun who founded a nunnery and her own religious order here. The island is named in her honor.

Here are some of the features to enjoy on the island:

Fort Royal

Saint-Marguerite is perhaps best known for its Fort Royal, Una fortezza e prigione costruita per impedire agli spagnoli di occupare la zona durante la Guerra dei Trent'anni. Ma fallì il suo scopo e gli spagnoli occuparono le isole dal 1633 al 1637.

In the 17th century, while it was a prison, Abd al-Qadir al-Jaza’iri (an Algerian rebel leader), Marquis Jouffroy d’Abbans (inventor of the steamboat) and Marshal Bazaine are all known to have spent time here, with the latter being the only successful escapee… that we know of. But it is most famous for housing the so-called “Man in the Iron Mask(che in realtà indossava una maschera di velluto nero). Esistono molte leggende e teorie su questo prigioniero e sui motivi per cui fu tenuto prigioniero per decenni fino alla sua morte, e sia i bambini più grandi che gli adulti amano scoprire di più su questa affascinante parte della storia francese.

There’s a museum and a beautiful chapel to explore, but the main attraction is undoubtedly the cell of L’homme au Masque de Fer. Don’t expect to find the mask itself there, however. Instead there are other relics on display, as well as several art installations. The cell itself is actually quite large, although one suspects this wasn’t for comfort and more to facilitate torture. Back in Le Suquet, the story goes that the man in the mask actually escaped and ended up in the tower we mentioned earlier. He supposedly died here too, and haunts it to this day. It’s about as happy as this dark tale gets, and one that is worth exploring when visiting Cannes yourself.

Il forte, situato nel punto più a nord, è diventato negli ultimi anni una popolare meta turistica e didattica; durante tutto l'anno si svolgono gite scolastiche e ci sono persino alloggi per gli studenti all'interno delle mura. Il forte ospita un ostello in stile caserma utilizzato da gruppi giovanili e scuole. Il forte offre una splendida vista su Cannes, Antibes e le colline circostanti.

The artist Jean Le Gac also decorated some of the walls with murals. It is located near the port for ferries to and from Cannes. The fort is in the list of important heritage sites. Another attraction is the remains of houses that date back from the 3rd century, which have been excavated near the fort. They also have mosaics, wall paintings, and ceramics.

There is a maritime museum housed within the walls of Fort Royal, called Musée de la Mer , which is home to many artifacts from shipwrecks, pirates, and items from Roman times. These underwater archaeological finds are exhibited in a historic seaside fort. The collection also has some ceramics from Arab vessels from the 10th century. There are also aquariums, exhibits, and educational workshops to educate visitors about the ecological life of the islands.

Where to Eat and Chill

From April to October, the restaurant La Guérite È IL place to go for a boozy party brunch (the party really gets going during the second seating at around 4pm). One of the most famous restaurants on the French RIviera, it’s an elegant setting with well-prepared dishes. Expect to pay at least €200 per person, and make a reservation well in advance.

Ma non è sempre stato un luogo di ritrovo per le feste. Un tempo La Guérite era un'antica capanna di pescatori. Non passò molto tempo prima che diventasse il luogo preferito da gente del posto, amici e familiari nelle belle giornate estive. Rilassarsi, prendere il sole e socializzare attorno a un'allegra partita di bocce: questa tradizione di stile di vita mediterraneo, conviviale e autentico, è stata tramandata e coltivata dal 1902, fino a diventare uno dei ristoranti più ricercati e glamour della Costa Azzurra.

On the other side of the fort, you can find another (much less beautiful) beachfront restaurant called L’Escale . This touristy restaurant offers an expensive and mediocre salade Niçoise, grilled lobster, and seabass ceviche from April to October (dinner service is only in the summer — call to make a reservation).

If you’re looking for something more chill (and a lot less expensive!), or you forgot to make a dining reservation, your only option will be a snack-stall Vicino al molo dei traghetti. Qui potrete riempirvi la pancia con pan bagnat e altri panini da asporto da mangiare in spiaggia.

If you’re lucky enough to have arrived by yacht, you can order pizza to be delivered to you on the water from Catamaran Pizza or head over to St. Honorat (the other Lerins Island) and dine at La Tonnelle .

The Nature Trails

Enjoy the thick woods of Aleppo pines, evergreen oaks, and groves of eucalyptus at Pointe de la Convention . Route de la Convention is a group of connected walking paths that lead to the coast as well as in the woodlands inward.

There is a small beach west of the harbor and rocky inlets for bathing with clear waters. Picnic parks are also scattered everywhere.

Etang du Batéguier is a protected nature reserve and a sanctuary for migratory birds. There are terns, gulls, wood ducks, kestrel, and grey herons to spot in this lagoon on the island’s western tip.

The Underwater Museum

Off the coast of the island of Sainte-Marguerite, you’ll find one of the world’s only underwater art installations — the underwater “Eco Museum”, by award-winning British artist Jason deCaires Taylor.

The six sculptures in this permanent installation are constructed using pH-neutral, environmentally-sensitive materials to instigate natural growth and the subsequent changes intended to explore the aesthetics of decay, rebirth and metamorphosis.

The location is now cordoned off from boats, making it a safe place to dive. Located just off the shore , it is easily accessible 24-7 for anyone who wants to see it. Check out our guide to the underwater museum.

Plateau de Milieu

In summer months, a large number of boats anchor at Plateau de Milieu, the shallow turquoise channel that separates Ste-Marguerite and St-Honorat. There are water skiing, parascending, and other water activities here. There are picnic tables in the water’s edge, and expect to see plenty of people swimming.

The Only Private Property

Le Grande Jardin is the only private property ever to be built on the islands. It has several villas, a large swimming pool, gardens, and a small castle on the waterfront. Soon, it will be a luxury hotel. Here is the scandalous story behind this property and its many fascinating owners.

Saint-Honorat Island

L'isola sorella minore di Sainte-Marguerite è a un tiro di bottiglia di distanza. L'isola di Saint-Honorat, con la sua abbazia cistercense, è la seconda isola più grande delle isole di Lerino. È lunga circa 1,5 chilometri e larga 400 metri (circa 40 ettari). Qui, potrete ammirare viti, lavanda, erbe aromatiche, ulivi, papaveri e margherite che si mescolano ai profumi di rosmarino, timo e caprifoglio. Sedetevi sotto i pini e gli eucalipti, che regalano ombra lungo la riva.

Home to a silent order of Cistercian monks for 16 centuries, it’s also a favored A-list escape. Not only do the monks produce fine wines, God’s writ prohibits them from talking to the press.

Abbaye de Lérins & Monastère Fortifé Fort

The Abbaye de Lérins is home to the Cistercian monks. The monks who lived here in the past are renowned for their theological contributions. St Patrick, Ireland’s patron trained here. The monks still allow pilgrims to join them in their retreat and contemplation ranging from two days to one week.

The abbey/monastery was established by St-Honorat of Arles (Honoratus) nel V secolo. Un tempo era il punto d'appoggio di un potente gruppo di monaci che possedeva gran parte dell'area ed estendeva la propria influenza persino a Cannes. Il loro immenso potere e la loro ricchezza alla fine portarono alla loro caduta. Ora l'isola è di proprietà dei monaci cistercensi. Acquistarono l'isola nel 1861 e i monaci vivono in un monastero costruito nel XIX secolo (Abbazia di Lerino).

These monks are famous for their Lérins wine and liqueurs, which can be bought in the cloister’s shop or via their website. Covered with pine trees, roses, lavender, eucalyptus, and cypresses, it is a perfect retreat for tourists who seek peace, spirituality, and tranquility.

While the monks’ residence is not open to tourists, the church is open for visits, and you can attend mass there (check the timing on their official website). Le chiese e il chiostro sono testimonianze dell'epoca medievale: la maggior parte degli edifici risale al XIX secolo. Fungono da luoghi di ritiro per gli spirituali.

Chapelle St-Caprais Prende il nome da un monaco che accompagnò Sant'Onorato nel suo ritiro e lo aiutò a fondare l'ordine. È anche il sito di una fornace dove venivano prodotte le batterie di cannoni e le palle di cannone napoleoniche.

There are several other very small churches on the islands, including La Chapelle de la Trinité , St-Caprais , St-Pierre , and St-Sauveur . The churches remain untouched and in their original condition, to this day.

The Monk’s Products

The monks of today now have their own vineyard to cultivate. They manually plant, grow, harvest, press, age, and bottle them with their own hands. The result is a highly-prized wine. They also make other plant-based liqueurs, fruit-based liqueurs, a pomace brandy, and they have an apiary for honey production. You can buy their products in the abbey’s two shops, and they make great (albeit expensive) gifts.

Restaurant and Café

The island’s restaurant, La Tonnelle , is the perfect place for a lazy lunch with a view of the sea. It serves grilled meats, seafood, and salads, as well as the monastic wine.

Another café offers take-away snacks like panini sandwiches, ice cream, coffee and cakes such as lemon tart and chocolate cake for tea.

Video Tour of Lerins Islands

How to Get to the Lerins Islands

The ideal way to explore the area is to hop on a friend’s yacht (or rent one), so you can travel in privacy and luxury, and relax onboard when you feel like it. Your 5-star hotel’s concierge can help you arrange a yacht rental.

Se uno yacht non rientra nelle tue possibilità economiche, un biglietto di andata e ritorno per un adulto su un traghetto costa circa 15 €.

FERRIES FROM ST-MARGUERITE:

• To/From Cannes:
  Horizon (Phone: +33492987136)
  Riviera lines (Phone: +33492987136)
  Trans Côte d’Azur (Phone: +33492987130)
• To/From Nice:
  Trans Côte d’Azur (Phone: +33492004230)

FERRIES FROM ST-HONORAT:

• To/From Cannes: Compagnie Planaria (Phone: +33492987138)

KAYAKING FROM CANNES:

From Cannes you can kayak to the Lérins Islands on double kayaks with the help of an instructor who will give you tips on how to paddle most efficiently and which spots are best for taking in your surroundings. You can either rent the kayaks for independent use or you can book a guided tour with a certified instructor, who will take you to the different islands and show you hidden spots you wouldn’t easily reach by yourself. Sessions are available for a day, half-day, or at sunset, so you can choose which slot fits best into your day.