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Nice的美食：值得一试的当地菜肴
French food is famous around the world for its elegant flavors. Yet, the cuisine of Nice is probably not what most people have in mind when they think of French food. Located on the southern coast, Nice’s food culture is unique, combining Mediterranean, English, and Provincial French influences. Unlike the rest of France, many of the dishes that Nice is known for are vegan or vegetarian-friendly, and on the healthy side.
英国的影响
The reputation France now enjoys as the home of fine cuisine was forged largely in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. In the 18th century, English visitors to France deplored the local fare and, as far as possible, imposed the delicacies of English cuisine on the French.
In Nice, on 20 September 1789, Arthur Young found himself dining on roast beef, plum pudding, and porter, which made him ‘drop for a moment the idea of the formidable distance that separated me from England’. The physician Edward Rigby, visiting the town that year, was treated to a dinner 全部英语 (everything English).
七十年后，谈到海岸东端芒通的情况， J·亨利·班纳特博士 记录：“正如芒通酒店老板告诉我的那样，我们每天在酒店积极要求和准确的晚餐对他们来说都是节日晚餐，他们从来没有梦想过，除非是为了欢迎朋友结婚或洗礼。为了向数百名陌生人提供如此高标准的食物，这个国家必须被搜查方圆一百英里。”
The Unique Cuisine of Nice
The cuisine of Nice, and the French Riviera in general, is a refreshing break from the heavy dishes that are more common in the northern parts of France. Inspired by seasonality and natural bounty of the land and sea, the people of Nice have developed a landmark cuisine that is part French and part Mediterranean — with an English twist.
With its fair share of Michelin-starred restaurants plus a variety of homegrown dishes, the Côte d’Azur is a great place for both fine dining and rustic fare while overlooking the Mediterranean. Niçoise cuisine is so tasty that city elders are bidding for UNESCO recognition of 90 key recipes including Salade Niçoise.
Nice is also unique in that you don’t need to leave city limits to visit vineyards and wineries. With just 70 hectares under vine, AOC 贝莱特 是法国最小的葡萄酒产区之一，也是唯一一个完全位于城市范围内的葡萄酒产区。 Braquet 和 Folle noire 这两种本土葡萄品种的历史早于罗马占领里维埃拉。在 Cave Bianchi 的品酒室寻找早期年份的葡萄酒 。
Tip: “Niçois” and “Niçoise” means “of Nice” in French, and thus will come up in the names of many of these local dishes.
这些成分
Seasonal ingredients from the local markets play a key role in the local cuisine. Due to the particularly hospitable weather, Nice is a very farm-to-table city, with nearly all ingredient being grown at nearby farms.
居民——包括专业厨师——前往 萨勒亚大道市场 获取家常饭菜的食材。该市场被国家烹饪艺术委员会评为法国最好的市场之一，提供镇上最新鲜、最当地采购的食材。条纹遮阳篷上种着大丽花和天竺葵等色彩缤纷的花朵，顾客可以在一个又一个摊位上仔细浏览有机蔬菜、水果和奶酪。
甚至还有 Terre du Truffes 等餐厅的辛辣冬季松露等美味佳肴 来自附近滨海阿尔卑斯省橡树林高处的觅食队伍。鸡油菌和牛肝菌等价格较低的季节性真菌也产自附近。
尼索瓦人在蔬菜方面具有无可比拟的创造力：虽然法国其他地区很少使用西葫芦精致的黄色花瓣，但在这里它们却得到了很好的利用 法西斯 （见下文）和各种其他菜肴。从五月到九月，该地区各地的市场上都会出现这种花，最流行的烹饪方法是将它们放在清淡的面糊中煎炸，制成 贝奈特饼 （油条）。
尼萨尔德美食
Nice takes their heritage cuisine seriously. The city has created a certification label called Cuisine Nissarde to let foodies know where to go to enjoy the city’s traditional local dishes. You can enjoy the authentic cuisine of Nice and its original flavors in one of the restaurants labelled “尼萨尔德美食”. Across the Cote d’Azur, there are about two dozen restaurants that are officially labelled “Cuisine Nissarde,” eight of them in or near Vieux Nice.
也许最正宗的是家族经营的 阿奇亚多之家 自 1927 年以来一直深受当地人喜爱，供应传统菜肴，如 道贝，用红酒和地中海香草制成的炖牛肉； 特鲁奇亚，带有小瑞士甜菜的菜肉馅煎蛋饼；和 皮萨拉迪埃，一种上面撒有焦糖洋葱、凤尾鱼和橄榄的大饼。在这里和许多其他餐厅，一定要尝试一下 梅尔达德坎, 绿色面疙瘩配上 皮斯托，利古里亚（意大利北部）版本的香蒜酱。
Nice’s Most Famous Dishes
日光浴之间 闪闪发光的法国里维埃拉海滩 and exploring the winding streets, be sure to try these quintessentially Nice dishes:
索卡（又名法里纳塔）
The definitive Niçois snack, Socca (also called farinata) is best served as an aperitif with a chilled glass of Côtes de Provence rosé. No knife and fork required, it’s French fast food at its best: Chickpea flour, olive oil, and salt are combined to make a smooth mixture, which, after several hours’ rest, is baked in a wood-fired oven, in large, round socca trays. The result is a crispy golden pancake with a soft, tasty interior.
Order a large portion, sprinkle liberally with black pepper, and share with friends. With plenty of protein and naturally gluten-free, socca is a great choice if you’re looking for a light meal or snack.
哪里可以尝试： Tucked away behind Nice’s port, 皮波之家 一直是该去的地方 索卡的一部分 since 1923. Expect to wait for a table: Chez Pipo’s stellar reputation has become one of Nice’s worst-kept secrets among locals and savvy tourists alike.
Don’t want to sit? In Nice, you’ll see street vendors baking socca in sidewalk stalls. You can also pick up a slice to nibble on while you shop in 露天食品市场。
在家做： 索卡食谱
Farcis Niçois（又名 Les Petits Farcis）
Farcis niçois, also known as les petits farcis, is a dish often mistranslated on menus, much to the bemusement of tourists, who are left wondering what “a plate of stuffs” could possibly be. It is in fact a delicious local specialty consisting of baked vegetables—usually peppers, eggplants, courgettes (zucchini) and their flowers, and even onions—stuffed with minced veal and beef, bread crumbs, and vegetables, sometimes topped with a sprinkling of Parmesan cheese.
填充蔬菜的大小各不相同，有时作为开胃菜，但通常它们会与大份沙拉和一大块面包一起制成令人满意的主餐。炸薯条通常在“la belle saison”（春季和夏季）期间食用，是一顿清淡清爽的餐点。您可以在炎热的天气里将它们作为清淡的午餐，或者作为丰盛的省级晚餐的蔬菜菜肴。
哪里可以尝试： Les petits farcis feature on most restaurant menus, but for an authentic experience head to the narrow streets of the Vieux Nice and snag a table at 餐厅和咖啡厅 。这家当地餐厅由家族经营了几十年，专门提供质朴、朴实的尼索瓦美食，包括 les petitsfarcis。与拼命吸引游客的旅游陷阱不同，阿奇亚多似乎一夜又一夜地毫不费力地挤满了人。请注意，周末和游客密集的八月期间不开放。
在家做： Farcis niçois食谱
潘巴格纳特
当地人一直以其世界闻名的尼斯沙拉而自豪，他们发明了一种便携式衍生品：一般来说， 潘巴格纳特 is all that’s good about a Niçois salad —tuna, boiled egg, anchovies, radish, celery, artichokes, olives— drizzled with olive oil and stuffed into a sandwich made with freshly baked whole wheat pain d’campagne (“country bread”).
提示：尽管法国人喜欢蛋黄酱，但你永远不应该在平底锅中加入蛋黄酱。是橄榄油还是什么都没有！
哪里可以尝试： During your stay in Nice, you’ll see pan bagnat everywhere, from chic cafes to corner bakeries and food stalls on the streets and in markets. The take-away kiosk Chez TinTin is a reliable place to find pan bagnat (for about €5). Most boulangeries in Nice are also well stocked with it.
它非常适合前往海滩野餐或在旅途中享用午餐。但请注意：这不是最容易吃的食物。面包是一个大圆面包，里面的东西很容易变得一团糟，所以单独吃或者和你不一定想给别人留下深刻印象的人一起吃！
在家做： 平底锅巴格纳食谱
Salade Niçoise & Pasta Niçoise
Salade Niçoise is famous well outside of France. But just because you’ve had salade Niçoise before doesn’t mean you should skip the dish on your trip to Nice. After all, seasonality and fresh, local ingredients are at the heart of Niçoise cooking. The ingredients that make this complex and satisfying salad —anchovies, olives, eggs, olive oil, summer vegetables— are at their best in the south of France.
尼斯沙拉非常适合午餐或晚餐。离开餐桌时，您会感觉自己吃了一顿丰盛的饭菜，但又不会吃得太饱。
这道菜的一个著名变种是尼斯面食，用生菜和鸡蛋换成面食。
哪里可以尝试： 卢·巴里科 以尼斯沙拉而闻名，这种沙拉与美式沙拉有所不同，用朝鲜蓟代替扁豆，再加上凤尾鱼和腌制的蔬菜丁，搭配新鲜蔬菜、金枪鱼、橄榄、番茄和煮鸡蛋。
皮萨拉迪埃
Pissaladière is thick bread dough topped with black olives, caramelized onions, and whole anchovies. Believe it or not, pissaladière was once the quintessential Nice breakfast. The most important ingredient in a pissaladière is anchovies, but don’t let that deter you. Salted anchovies from the Mediterranean have a wonderful savory flavor that’s much more palatable than the canned varieties. Today, you’re likely to find it as an appetizer at both lunch and dinner.
在家做： 皮萨拉迪埃食谱
皮斯托汤
“Pistou”是一种独特的类似香蒜沙司的酱汁，在蔬菜汤上有一团。作为 美国美食家韦弗利鲁特 observed, it’s one of the finest soups known to man. In addition to vegetables like carrots, summer squash, and potatoes, soupe au pistou also contains hearty beans and a burst of fresh herbs. Like a lot of typical Nice dishes, it’s light, healthy, and very flavorful.
在家做： 浓汤食谱
料理鼠王
After the salade niçoise, ratatouille is probably the most famous dish from Nice. Remember the animated movie featuring the rat with big dreams of becoming a chef? This is the dish that inspired that film.
This veggie stew consists of tomatoes, onions, courgettes, aubergines, and peppers all sautéed with garlic and herbes de Provence (a mixture of dried herbs, typically oregano, rosemary, thyme and marjoram, among others). True ratatouille is a no-nonsense vegetable stew that is filling enough to have as a meal on its own.
哪里可以尝试： 朴素的入口 拉梅伦达 may not immediately catch the eye, but it’s one of the best places in the city to try local specialties like this one. The chef, Dominique le Stanc, walked away from the Michelin stars he earned at the acclaimed Le Chantecler (at the Negresco Hotel) to open this snug dining room in the Old Town, where he concentrates on authentic Niçoise cuisine.
It’s a rare chance to taste local dishes cooked by a Michelin-starred chef at accessible prices, and if you’re in Nice during the summer months, he’ll cook you an exceptional ratatouille made from local veggies.
在家做： 料理鼠王食谱
道贝·尼索瓦斯
La Daube Niçoise is a beef stew which, paired with a bottle of Cotes du Rhone, makes for a hearty dinner on a cool evening. Don’t let the Mediterranean sunshine put you off ordering this dish, which is served at any time of the year. The typical ingredients of a daube stew are braised beef and fresh vegetables flavored with a bouquet garni. However, the people of Nice add three special ingredients to their stews: cremini mushrooms, brandy, and cayenne pepper. The earthy mushrooms, spicy pepper, and sweet local branda transform a simple, comforting stew into a rich culinary experience.
哪里可以尝试： 与 法西斯, 大多数餐厅都提供 多贝, 但许多都低于标准。拉梅伦达 全年都能酿造完美的 Daube Niçoise。
在家做： La Daube Niçoise 食谱
馄饨
Even though many people assume that this ravioli came from Italy, the truth is that this pasta dish was invented on the French Riviera and is still super popular in Nice. These delicious ravioli are traditionally made with leftover daube niçois. Using the already-stewed beef yields a tender and flavorful filling for the pasta, and the stew itself serves as the perfect sauce. However, it’s also common to find raviolis niçois filled with ground beef and the second essential ingredient, Swiss chard. As fresh pasta is always a treat, keep an eye out for this dish when you’re eating out in Nice’s many restaurants.
在家做： 馄饨食谱
布莱特图尔特
Although this is a dessert tart, you wouldn’t think it, but its main ingredient is chard. The pastry that forms the top crust and base is made with olive oil and the filling consists of parmesan, pine nuts and, of course, chard. Sometimes a layer of apple is also included.
尽管它主要由蔬菜组成，但这道菜又甜又美味，是结束一顿饭的完美方式。可以把它想象成胡萝卜蛋糕或红薯派！
在家做： Tourte de Blettes食谱
If you want to make your experience tasting these tantalizing French foods as nice as possible, try them in Nice. Or stop by Nice’s incredible market 并挑选一些当地的美食。毕竟，真实性是确保美味佳肴的最佳方法之一。
