Weather & Best / Worst Trip Timing

The French Riviera (also known as the Côte d’Azur), is a dreamy French region that extends east along the coast from Menton and Monaco to Théoule-sur-Mer and Saint-Tropez, and up into the Southern Alps. The Riviera contains several cities (Nice and Cannes among them), 14 natural parks, Roman ruins, medieval villages and whale-watching just offshore.

Don’t think of the Côte d’Azur as just a summer locale, either. Sure, these cities heat up come July as the masses parade down boulevards and beaches, but winter is one of the Riviera’s best-kept secrets with ski towns less than 90 minutes north of the shore.

Mandelieu-la-Napoule in the Esterel region

Here’s what you need to know to plan your trip to the South of France:

Best & Worst Months to Visit

There are several factors to consider when timing your visit to the French Riviera:

When Big Festivals Are Happening

There are two times when the French Riviera is super crowded: during summer school holidays (July & August) and during large festivals. If you’re not attending the crowded festivals, then it’s best to avoid a trip to the area during that time, since the hotels will be more expensive, traffic will be worse, and the sights and museums will be more crowded.

expect crowds at Menton’s Fete du citron

Avoid the area in February, as there are huge festivals going on in both Nice and Menton during that time. That’s when Nice hosts one of the Riviera’s main winter events, the annual 15-day Carnaval de Nice, which attracts roughly one million tourists. It’s fun to attend (if you don’t mind crowds), but Nice becomes a different beast during this time. In Menton, the city throws the three-week La Fête du Citron. Over 200,000 tourists pack into the town during this time. Unfortunately, being smaller than Nice, Menton is severely affected by the invasion of guests during this time. There are traffic jams everywhere, and crowds of people march down the narrow streets and along the promenade.

monaco sets up for the grand prix weeks ahead of time

Avoid late April and the entire month of May because that’s when the Cannes Film Festival and the Monaco Grand Prix happen. During Monaco’s Grand Prix, and for the six weeks before it and a month after, many streets in Monaco are blocked off, it’s noisy because of all the construction, and it’s very confusingly tough to get around, making it much less pleasant to visit (unless, of course, you’re coming to see the races). Cannes is in construction disarray for about a month before and a couple of weeks after the film festival.

Check our events calendar to learn when other events are happening and determine the best and worst times to visit.

Summer, or Winter?

The Côte d’Azur is protected by hills in the west and the Mercantour Alps in the northwest, meaning a mild Mediterranean climate year-round. Expect almost 300 days of sunshine, with stretches of rain around the shoulder months of March and April, as well as October and November. June and September are some of the best months to visit the region, while July and August are the height of the season.

Summer: Crowded & Expensive?

the public beach in Nice is very crowded all summer

The best time for swimming and sun bathing on the French Riviera is the summer, from mid-June to August. That’s also, not surprisingly, when the beaches are very crowded. Tourists cram the beaches in the summer months, making it harder to snag beach beds and dinner reservations.

There’s no two ways about it: Summers on the French Riviera are extremely crowded and expensive. The beaches are packed and finding parking can be a memorably frustrating endeavor. The average price of a glass of wine shoots up from €7 to €17.

As Charles Glass so eloquently put it: “The summertime mob rules the French Riviera seaside. Hungry visitors queue for beach tables amid the horse flies at Saint-Tropez’s Club 55 to admire one another’s jewelry. They then dive into water so laden with Ambre Solaire it looks like the Exxon Valdez crashed into another reef. Holidaymakers leave the south to its peaceful winter and reassemble there each summer, like defeated regiments needing one more go at enemy lines to prove that, this time, they will succeed. Of course, they never do. And so they return home wearier than when they arrived.”

As soon as temperatures rise, in-the-know residents head for the hills, to walk through cool forests of truffle oaks, swim in waterfalls, and sip rosé en piscine (with ice cubes) on a shady village square. They jump on a ferry to Ile Saint-Honorat for a lunch of fresh, grilled scallops, or go to Théoule-sur-Mer for a swim at one of the tiny inlets along the craggy coastline. The real French Riviera is still here, even in peak season. You will find it if you look beyond the glare of the bright lights; it just takes a little prompting to find it.

Winter & Off-Season: What Will Be Closed?

In the winter, the weather is still pleasant and prices are lower. Winter is far from what we’d consider “beach weather” (although you will still see people suntanning on the beaches throughout the winter) but temperatures rarely hit freezing.

The downside is that many of the best hotels and restaurants in the villages close, including all the charming seaside bistros. They usually start opening up again in April and close again in early October. So the best time to visit is April, May, June and September. Avoid July and August, if possible.

If you’re visiting Monaco, Cannes or Nice, you don’t need to worry about hotels and restaurants being closed in the off-season, with the exception of the seaside restaurants.

Many towns and villages host traditional Christmas markets selling local specialties and mulled wine (or vin chaud). The region’s 15 ski resorts open for the season in December and stay open until April. The closest –Auron, Isola 2000, and Valberg– are a little over two hours away by bus from the Nice train station or airport.

There is no point in visiting the western side of the French Riviera (Esterel to St Tropez regions) in the off-season (November to mid-April), as almost all of the hotels, shops, and restaurants close up. We recommend visiting in late April, May, June, September or early October to avoid the crowds but still enjoy the beautiful Mediterranean weather.

Mediterranean Climate

The climate of the French Riviera (Côte d’Azur), the French coastline that goes from just east of Marseille to just east of Menton (near the border with Italy), is ‘Mediterranean’, with mild, relatively rainy winters and warm, sunny summers. Atlantic frontal systems pass quite often throughout the year, but especially from October to April, while in summer, especially in July and August, they become rare.

Neptune beach in Nice, France

In winter, the weather is generally mild and while some visitors still wear their furs (which is, of course, perceived as distasteful nowadays), it’s rare to actually need anything more than a light jacket. Typically, the summer temperatures are acceptable, although there can sometimes be hot periods, with highs about 35°C (95°F), but fortunately, sea breezes blow along the coast to cool you down.

The eastern part of the French Riviera, the one oriented to the south-east and bordering the Ligurian Riviera in Italy, which according to some is the real Côte d’Azur (in cities like Cannes, Nice, Monte Carlo and Menton), is the mildest one. Here, snowfalls and frosts almost never happen. The summer heat is less intense than in Marseille as well.

Cannes / Mediterranean Weather Averages

We will use Cannes as an example, as it’s roughly in the middle of the French Riviera. For exact averages by town, see the links at the bottom of this guide.

the beach in cannes
AVERAGE TEMPERATURES IN CANNES

In Cannes, it rains about 700 mm (27.5 in) per year, and increases the farther east you go, reaching 800 mm (31.5 in) in Monte Carlo (in the Principality of Monaco). From late October to December (some years more than others) there can be a lot of rain.

AVERAGE PRECIPITATION IN CANNES

The sunshine duration on the French Riviera is great from April to September. The rest of the year (in autumn and winter) there is a moderate amount of sunny days, but they alternate with cloudy and rainy days.

AVERAGE DAILY SUNSHINE HOURS IN CANNES

St. Tropez & the Esterel Region

St. Tropez and the Esterel Massif area is in the Var province of France. The air temperatures in that area are less mild than the rest of the French Riviera. In the summer, the daytime is 1 to 3 degrees celcius hotter than the Monaco and Nice area, and 1 to 3 degrees colder at night. In the winter, it can get as much as 5 degrees C colder than the rest of the French Riviera, and it has unique rain and fog patterns.

The ‘Mistral’ — incredibly strong, destructive, chilling wind — can arise at any time (but is less common in the summer), sometimes reaching 185 km/h (115 mph). It creates severe fire-hazard conditions, during which time the regional authorities prohibit all access to the massif of the Estérel. Close your shutters and expect anything left outside to blow over or away.

Sea Temperature

On the western part of the French Riviera (St-Tropez, Cannes), while the air can get extremely hot in the summer, the sea is never very warm because it is cooled for several months per year by the Mistral (which blows in the western part, but owing to sea currents, cold waters reach a larger area). The farther east you go along the coast (Nice, Monaco, Menton), the warmer the water gets. It is the warmest in Menton.

AVERAGE WATER TEMPERATURE IN CANNES

More Weather Information

Here are very detailed monthly weather averages for:

Check out our guide to the French Riviera’s best beaches, and their swimming issues, and our guide to the best beach clubs near St Tropez.

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